One of the most iconic dishes in Tuscan cookery, cacciucco is a fish soup made in the costal areas of Tuscany, most famously in and around the port city of Livorno. Like many Italian fish "soups", cacciucco is really more of a stew, made from a large variety of fish, mollusks and crustaceans. Tradition has it there should be at least five types of seafood, one for each "c" in cacciucco. Truth be told, there's no need to fuss too much about the specific number, but variety is at the heart of a good cacciucco. Also like other fish soups, the seafood is cooked in a tomato-tinged broth. You start with a soffritto or flavor base of garlic, sage and hot red pepper briefly sautéed in lots of olive oil. The seafood is then simmered in stages: the first to go into the pot are the mollusks like octopus and squid that need fairly long cooking. Then in go the fish, cut into chunks, to simmer for a few minutes, and finally the delicate seafood that needs only a couple of minutes cooking right before serving, typically a crustacean like shrimp and sometimes a bivalve like mussels. It has to be said that, strictly speaking, it's very challenging if not impossible to make a proper cacciucco outside the Mediterranean basin. For example, where I live I can't find those small bony (but super-flavorful) fishes typical of cacciucco and so many other Mediterranean fish soups that the Italians call pesce da zuppa or "fish for soup". Indeed, they say the very name "cacciucco" is a corruption of the Turkish word küçük, which means "small", a reference to the small fish used in making it. That said, you can make an excellent fish soup in the spirit of cacciucco with whatever fish and other seafood you can find where you live. After all, they say fish soups were originally a way for fishermen to use up the unsold odds and ends of their daily catch. (You can find some suggestions for substitutions in the Notes to today's blog post.) While it might not be 100% "DOC", your ersatz cacciucco will be perfectly delicious. For the recipe, click on the image above or the "Read More" button below. And don't forget to leave a like or a comment. We love hearing from you! Happy cooking! Frank |
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